Archive for March 9th, 2007

Steelhead Diner (Downtown)

I’m not Batman. Neither am I Superman or Spiderman. But I am an eating machine, a Robotic Gourmand, and that is my secret identity. Like a comic book hero, I too try to maintain my anonymity at, well, most costs; especially when it comes to favorable treatment. Yet with the number of restaurant reviews under my belt I still make freshmen mistakes from time to time. Like sitting under harsh, direct lighting for my pictures or being blatantly obvious with my photography and note taking. It was both of these goofs that were responsible for my uncovering my alter ego during a recent visit to Steelhead Diner.

In the case of Steelhead Diner, the word diner can be described as more an adjective than a noun. Certainly there is a feel, an undercurrent, of diner-like style to the decor and the menu but the restaurant is more than that. Bathed in mostly pastel-ish hues with views of Elliot Bay and oversized tied fishing flies the space conveys a message of calm and peace (much like that of fly fishing on a far flung river?) even during the most bustling of lunch rushes at this Seattle eatery. It’s this blend of styles, of feelings, that makes one’s visit initially intriguing, but it was the menu itself that really drew my interest.

"Rich-Boy" with Uli's Sausage

"Rich-Boy" with Uli's Sausage

My first experience with Steelhead’s menu was at the tail-end of lunch and started with a “Rich Boy” with Uli’s Hot Sausage ($9.95) and Poutine ($6.95). I learned in my discussions with Chef Kevin Davis about his time in the South and the diners he’d worked in the past, which made sense considering that the menu had a decidedly southern slant. Take, for instance, my “Rich Boy” sandwich. An obvious play on the “Po Boy” of Louisiana, that humble sandwich has been upgraded (perhaps even, kicked up a notch) to a delicate yet spicy sausage, grilled with crisp marks on the exterior but still maintaining a moist, meaty interior. Served on a soft, fresh baguette, the sandwich comes dressed with lettuce, tomato and pickle - a welcome bit of cool, crisp vegetable to douse the fire of spicy sausage and hot sauce aioli. I was a bit hesitant at first about the aioli, having tried my share of spicy mayonnaise in the past. But the sauce was lovely, smooth and creamy but hiding the surprise of a kick in the mouth that could easily send someone scrambling for a gulp of their beverage. While the sandwich came accompanied with fries I opted for the addition of poutine with its curds of fresh cheese melting and adhering the individual fries together, inviting one to pour the lovely, meaty gravy over the top. Spiked with bits of meat the gravy was very good. My only complaint was that it was a little on the thin side for my liking but then again I like for my gravy to be able to support small children on its surface.

Poutine

Normally my lunch would end at there, a sandwich and fries. But no, I had to go for a lemony dessert - Lemon Pudding Cake ($7.95). Dense and filled with lemon flavor, the “sweet nothing” of a cake is a dream for those who enjoy the sweet/tart taste of lemon. Floating amongst a lemon pudding and garnished with mascarpone and paper thin lemon slices, it was almost too much. But it was a nice palate cleansing finish to a filling and satisfying meal.

Lemon Pudding Cake

While I will try harder in the future to keep my identity mask on it was fun to get the chance to talk with Kevin, to learn more about his restaurant, what went into the idea and how he was influenced. There is a definite undertone of “Southern” to the menu but it’s also a diner first and foremost; a diner that’s but a hop, skip and a jump away from the freshness of Pike Place Market. As the growing season starts back up and the menus start to change I can’t wait to see what else comes out of the small, cramped diner kitchen. It can be said for certain that I will be back.

3 comments