Nothing builds an appetite quite like traffic, or is that ruin an appetite. I can never get that straight. Not that I need a reason to be hungry or want something good to eat. But sometimes fighting traffic on a rainy afternoon starts the gnawing in one’s belly, a hunger that needs to be filled. It was today’s hunger that had me seeking out Baguette Box on Capitol Hill.

You’ll know it when you see it, walking uphill from Pacific Place or down past the stores that line Pine St. Baguette Box is unique for a restaurant in that their signature, a baguette, is firmly in the mouth of their mascot icon Boxer. The sign on the window is big as day and as long as you know to look for that, you’ll always find this tiny little shop. The space is small and narrow and you walk through the dining area with its five or so tables to get to the counter to place your order. A large sign is mounted high above your head listing sandwiches or you can grab a paper menu from the counter and step back while deciding which delight best fits your mood.

Today I choose the Grilled Lemongrass Skirt Steak Baguette ($7.50) and an order of Fries ($2.35). It took a short while for my food to get to me as the steak was cooking in the back. The kitchen is an open-air affair that is located just over the shoulder of the cashier. It was my fries that came out first. Dressed in a paper cup similar to what you’d find at the state fair, they were a dark, golden brown, standing at attention with big flakes of course salt clinging to their surface. The crispy exteriors held fluffy interiors with big potato flavor all without the slightest hint of greasiness.

It was after shoveling a few fries into my mouth that my sandwich arrived. Hot and steamy I could smell the scent of lemon and a hint of the cilantro that was lounging on top of all the toppings. The baguette itself had a soft interior with a crunchy, crackly crust. I pay particular attention to the bread not only because the restaurant is named Baguette Box but also because too many times when one orders a sandwich made on baguette you get a tough, chewy piece of shoe leather. This was not the case here, however, as the bread was very fresh. Piled into it were too large-ish pieces of skirt steak, carrots, onion, lettuce and cilantro. I wasn’t until halfway through the sandwich that I realized what this was, a Bahn Mi. The steak was mildly flavored with lemongrass but sauced with hoisin sauce. Combine the bright lemon flavor with a savory, slightly tart hoisin sauce you get a unique taste. What made this stand out even more was the addition of sweet carrot. While a lot of Vietnamese food is based on Asian and French influences, and the Bahn Mi is a great example of this, this sandwich was most definitely Asian inspired all the way. I wouldn’t quite call it sweet and sour but sweet and savory would not be too far off the mark. My only complaint would be with the meat itself. Flank and skirt steaks, as I’ve said before are decent cuts of beef if treated properly. They should never be served in large chunks, especially if they are presented in a sandwich. I really dislike having to tear at a sandwich only to have a large bit of meat slide out of the bread and hang from my mouth. Smaller pieces of meat, please!

So was it worth fighting traffic? Would I do it again? I most definitely would. Baguette Box is a hole in the wall eatery with an upscale, yet low-key attitude. A relaxed atmosphere and good food make for a regular stop on my list of places to eat.